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我不在家里就在咖啡馆不在咖啡馆就在去咖啡馆的路上(2)

“你憂心忡忡，這也不順心，那也不如意，就去咖啡館！如果她不能履約而來，無論理由多麽充分，去咖啡館！你是一個公務員，卻奢想成爲一名醫生，去咖啡館！你找不到理想中的女朋友，去咖啡館！你嫉恨和蔑視所有的人，卻又離不開他們，去咖啡館！誰也不想給你賒帳了，去咖啡館！”這是奧地利詩人彼得·阿爾騰貝格所寫的《咖啡館的詩歌》。從《咖啡館的詩歌》中你可以感受到，詩人所表達的並不在于咖啡或是咖啡館本身，而在于由咖啡和咖啡館引發的一種文化現象。

（攝影：窮遊er 穆穆vintage）

音樂之都維也納是個優雅、浪漫的城市，不僅空氣中彌漫著悠揚的旋律，大街小巷飄出的咖啡香氣更令你陶醉。幾百年來，咖啡館成爲與音樂、華爾茲並列的維也納“三寶”。

咖啡館推薦

Café Central

“不在咖啡馆，就在去咖啡馆的路上。”这句话是别人对诗人阿尔滕伯格的描述，而这里的“咖啡馆”，指的正是维也纳的中央咖啡馆Café Central。于1876年开业的中央咖啡馆到今天依然光芒夺目，大堂里装饰着镀金圆柱，糕点橱柜陈列着精致甜点。想要来一场大革命吗？那就来中央咖啡馆吧！弗拉基米尔·列宁和列夫·托洛茨基在这座维也纳中心聚会场所的圆弧拱顶下讨论他们的大思路；伟大的奥地利人，从弗洛伊德到建筑师阿道夫·路斯再到现代诗人彼得?艾顿柏格，都曾在这座地标咖啡馆里就着一杯咖啡、一份薄皮苹果卷沉思。

地址：Herrengasse/Strauchgasse，1010 Wien

Café Sacher

该咖啡馆古典优雅，位于闻名于世的同名酒店中。在这里你能品尝到久负盛名的沙赫蛋糕，这是他们原创的当家招牌蛋糕。沙赫酒店从未外泄秘方，因此保证了这个原产店出品的蛋糕才是最正宗的，就连茜茜公主都钟情于此，如此具有明星气质，哪有不尝试之理？

地址：Philharmonikerstrasse 4 01

Demel

Demel成立于1786年，店内的工作人员都是从修道院招募的，统一身穿带有白色荷叶边的黑色制服。坐在Demel里的宾客通常都略有年纪，穿着讲究，举止优雅得体又有教养。 Demel与霍夫堡宫殿一端的门口处在同一条街上，足以见得其“皇室御用”的名号和气势所言非虚。另外，这里也有Demel博物馆，介绍了皇家御用巧克力和烘焙的历史。

地址：Kohlmarkt 14 01

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"We walked by the side of our teams or behind the wagons, we slept on the ground at night, we did our own cooking, we washed our knives by sticking them into the ground rapidly a few times, and we washed our plates with sand and wisps of grass. When we stopped, we arranged our wagons in a circle, and thus formed a 'corral,' or yard, where we drove our oxen to yoke them up. And the corral was often very useful as a fort, or camp, for defending ourselves against the Indians. Do you see that little hollow down there?" he asked, pointing to a depression in the ground a short distance to the right of the train. "Well, in that hollow our wagon-train was kept three days and nights by the Indians. Three days and nights they stayed around, and made several attacks. Two of our men were killed and three were wounded by their arrows, and others had narrow escapes. One arrow hit me on the throat, but I was saved by the knot of my neckerchief, and the point only tore the skin a little. Since that time I have always had a fondness for large neckties. I don't know how many of the Indians we killed, as they carried off their dead and wounded, to save them from being scalped. Next to getting the scalps of their enemies, the most important thing with the Indians is to save their own. We had several fights during our journey, but that one was the worst. Once a little party of us were surrounded in a small 'wallow,' and had a tough time to defend ourselves successfully. Luckily for us, the Indians had no fire-arms then, and their bows and arrows were no match for our rifles. Nowadays they are well armed, but there are[Pg 41] not so many of them, and they are not inclined to trouble the railway trains. They used to do a great deal of mischief in the old times, and many a poor fellow has been killed by them." The boys looked in the direction indicated, but could see nothing. This is not surprising, when we remember that sailors' eyes are accustomed to great distances, and can frequently see objects distinctly long before landsmen can make them out. Mr. Charlton's melancholy eyes seemed to be fixed on space. Just for the moment he had forgotten that he was not alone. Lawrence gave a sympathetic cough. As a matter of fact, he had not yet explained what he was doing there, and the longer the explanation was postponed the better he would be pleased. "You see our patient has gone," Balmayne said smoothly. "As a matter of fact, the whole thing was a ridiculous mistake. But you must not blame us. The blame is due to the charming young lady who sent for you. But that is one of the drawbacks of your noble profession. Goodnight." In one of the inmost circles, a sacred elephant had gone must, breaking his ropes, and confined now by only one leg. The chains fastened round his feet as soon as he showed the first symptoms of madness were lying broken in heaps on the ground. The brute had demolished the walls of his stable and then two sheds that happened to be in his way; now he was stamping a dance, every muscle in incessant motion, half swallowing his trunk, flinging straw in every direction, and finally heaping it on his head. A mob of people stood gazing from a distance, laughing at his heavy, clumsy movements; at the least step forward they[Pg 113] huddled back to fly, extending the circle, but still staring at the patient. In an adjoining stable were two more elephants very well cared for, the V neatly painted in red and white on their trunks, quietly eating and turning round only at the bidding of the driver; but one of them shed tears. The rajah's sleeping-room has at one end a dais ascended by three steps; here the sovereign's bed used to be spread; and here, now, the judges of the Supreme Court have their seats. In the middle of the room was a confused array of benches and tables, and against the walls, also washed with yellow, hung a series of portraits of bewigged worthies. No new clues offered themselves. He detached one of the hard, adhering chunks of gum and dropped it into his pocket, “just in case,” he said, half-grinning, “just in case they transfer themselves somewhere else. I’ll leave twenty-nine of them—and see.” The Lieutenant and Si and Shorty tried to make themselves believe that the noise was receding, showing that the rebels were being driven. At times it certainly was so, and then again it would burst out, Naturally, the boys were big-eyed all the time with the sights that filled the landscape near and far. Wherever they looked they were astonished, and when in a march they came out on a crest that commanded a wide view, they could not help halting, to drink all its wonders in. Even the experienced Si and Shorty were as full of amazement as they, and watched with fascination the spectacle of mighty preparation and concentrated power. "It has a great deal to do with this lecture with which you have favored us," answered the Major dryly. "But we'll not discuss that in open court. Are you through with the witness, Judge-Advocate? If so, call the next." "But I'm not going to leave you alone to brood," Albin said. "Because I'm your friend. And brooding isn't good for you. It's brooding that's got you into such a state—where you worry about growing things, for God's sake, and about freedom and silly things like that." Albin grinned. "What you've got to do is stop worrying, and I know how to get you to do that, kiddo. I really do." "Where may I learn the others?" But Gornom didn't answer, and Cadnan's breathing-space was over. He had to be back at the board, pushing buttons, watching carefully. Gornom stood behind him, peering over his shoulder with a cloudy eye. 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While the guide paused for a moment to recollect the way to the head-quarters of the insurgents, some one who passed was heard speaking in a tone which fell upon Stephen's ear like a sound he ought to remember; he sprang from the side of his comrades, and, standing before the strangers, demanded, "With whom hold you?" HoME 偷偷拍自拍15pENTER NUMBET 008www.trhsg.com.cn
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