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命運多舛的印度尼西亞咖啡

印尼一直是世界上最好的咖啡生产地之一，曾经的爪哇咖啡便是顶级咖啡的代名词，而苏门答腊和苏拉威西两个岛也盛产顶级咖啡。咖啡到印尼很早，17 世纪便被荷兰人带入，当时因荷兰人而开始种植咖啡的还有锡兰，即今日的斯里兰卡。而那个时候，不管是印尼还是斯里兰卡，种的都是阿拉比卡咖啡。

當時的歐洲人爲印尼咖啡，特別是爪哇咖啡爭破頭皮，這種咖啡味道不那麽苦。酸度很低的咖啡被人如此形容：“好的爪哇咖啡具有這樣的特性，它展現出一種相對的濃稠，與其他某些印尼咖啡相比，略顯得輕淡些，酸度也更低。這種咖啡在整體上展現出質樸的風格和悠長的回味，余味中還微微閃現些草木滋味。同其他印尼咖啡相比，余味沒有那麽長久，但經常包含輕微的辛辣與煙熏混合的氣息。爪哇咖啡在整體上給人留有一種芳甜的印象，非常輕柔並且豐富。”我不知全盛時代的爪哇咖啡到底是何滋味，但讀了便怦然心動。

這種神一般的咖啡當時只供歐洲，要經曆帆船長期運輸，令咖啡酸度變得更低，味道也更好，到航運更爲發達時期，商人們不得不將

咖啡贮藏几年以获得更好口味，贮藏也带来更高昂的价格，以次充好，各种走私屡见不鲜。到1880 年代，爪哇咖啡达到鼎盛，但娇贵的阿拉比卡咖啡植株躲不过瘟疫，一种锈蚀病袭击了爪哇岛在内的许多地区，大片大片的咖啡树死去，当时整个印尼幸存的阿拉比卡咖啡只剩十分之一，大部分在苏门答腊岛。之后荷兰人再次带来非洲更强壮的罗布斯塔咖啡，这种咖啡更擅于抗病虫害，但口味却较阿拉比卡咖啡为次，光环终于离爪哇岛而去。

保留到今天的旧日种植园如今聚集在爪哇岛东部，包括Djampit, Blawan, Pancoer, 和 Kayumas4 个种植园，有机会不妨一访，都在Ijen 高原的Ijen 火山附近，他们从18 世纪到如今一直种着同一种咖啡。但爪哇已经不是那个爪哇，说起印尼咖啡，人们更多会说起苏门答腊曼特宁咖啡，或者更神奇的鲁瓦克咖啡(Kopi Luwak)，也就是传说中的麝香猫咖啡。鲁瓦克咖啡被称为世界上最昂贵的咖啡，主要产自印尼的苏门答腊、爪哇等岛屿，但异常稀少，麝香猫将咖啡果吞下肚去，经过“愁肠百转”，竟然将苦味化解大半，留下更为美味的咖啡。

这种咖啡被发现是因为当时抠门的荷兰种植园主禁止本地工人饮用咖啡，工人们为了获得这种自己千辛万苦种植的神奇果子，只能另辟蹊径，竟在麝香猫的排泄物中找到，经过清洗研磨，竟制成世间一等的咖啡，然后被荷兰人发现，变得更为昂贵。而作为印尼主要旅游目的地的巴厘岛，在旅游手册中常常以黄金咖啡出名，其实这就是印尼苏门答腊的曼特宁咖啡中的特选品，又叫黄金曼特宁(Golden Mandheling)。大抵逃脱了昔日病害袭击的苏门答腊，出产的曼特宁是世间最顶级的咖啡之一，香滑醇厚，比曾经的爪哇咖啡口味上会更显得重些，余味也稍长久些，可能比不了爪哇的细腻，却更有凶猛的架势。购买时可认准金色蝴蝶的商标。

在巴厘岛还有一些种植园被开辟成度假地，比如Munduk Moding 种植园便被做成带spa 的豪华度假村。度假村靠近巴厘岛中心湖区和Munduk 山站，附近的山头都覆盖着森林、咖啡树与稻米，有迷人的环境和富有本地特色的客房。其实巴厘岛与其他海

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"We walked by the side of our teams or behind the wagons, we slept on the ground at night, we did our own cooking, we washed our knives by sticking them into the ground rapidly a few times, and we washed our plates with sand and wisps of grass. When we stopped, we arranged our wagons in a circle, and thus formed a 'corral,' or yard, where we drove our oxen to yoke them up. And the corral was often very useful as a fort, or camp, for defending ourselves against the Indians. Do you see that little hollow down there?" he asked, pointing to a depression in the ground a short distance to the right of the train. "Well, in that hollow our wagon-train was kept three days and nights by the Indians. Three days and nights they stayed around, and made several attacks. Two of our men were killed and three were wounded by their arrows, and others had narrow escapes. One arrow hit me on the throat, but I was saved by the knot of my neckerchief, and the point only tore the skin a little. Since that time I have always had a fondness for large neckties. I don't know how many of the Indians we killed, as they carried off their dead and wounded, to save them from being scalped. Next to getting the scalps of their enemies, the most important thing with the Indians is to save their own. We had several fights during our journey, but that one was the worst. Once a little party of us were surrounded in a small 'wallow,' and had a tough time to defend ourselves successfully. Luckily for us, the Indians had no fire-arms then, and their bows and arrows were no match for our rifles. Nowadays they are well armed, but there are[Pg 41] not so many of them, and they are not inclined to trouble the railway trains. They used to do a great deal of mischief in the old times, and many a poor fellow has been killed by them." The boys looked in the direction indicated, but could see nothing. This is not surprising, when we remember that sailors' eyes are accustomed to great distances, and can frequently see objects distinctly long before landsmen can make them out. Mr. Charlton's melancholy eyes seemed to be fixed on space. Just for the moment he had forgotten that he was not alone. Lawrence gave a sympathetic cough. As a matter of fact, he had not yet explained what he was doing there, and the longer the explanation was postponed the better he would be pleased. "You see our patient has gone," Balmayne said smoothly. "As a matter of fact, the whole thing was a ridiculous mistake. But you must not blame us. The blame is due to the charming young lady who sent for you. But that is one of the drawbacks of your noble profession. Goodnight." In one of the inmost circles, a sacred elephant had gone must, breaking his ropes, and confined now by only one leg. The chains fastened round his feet as soon as he showed the first symptoms of madness were lying broken in heaps on the ground. The brute had demolished the walls of his stable and then two sheds that happened to be in his way; now he was stamping a dance, every muscle in incessant motion, half swallowing his trunk, flinging straw in every direction, and finally heaping it on his head. A mob of people stood gazing from a distance, laughing at his heavy, clumsy movements; at the least step forward they[Pg 113] huddled back to fly, extending the circle, but still staring at the patient. In an adjoining stable were two more elephants very well cared for, the V neatly painted in red and white on their trunks, quietly eating and turning round only at the bidding of the driver; but one of them shed tears. The rajah's sleeping-room has at one end a dais ascended by three steps; here the sovereign's bed used to be spread; and here, now, the judges of the Supreme Court have their seats. In the middle of the room was a confused array of benches and tables, and against the walls, also washed with yellow, hung a series of portraits of bewigged worthies. No new clues offered themselves. He detached one of the hard, adhering chunks of gum and dropped it into his pocket, “just in case,” he said, half-grinning, “just in case they transfer themselves somewhere else. I’ll leave twenty-nine of them—and see.” The Lieutenant and Si and Shorty tried to make themselves believe that the noise was receding, showing that the rebels were being driven. At times it certainly was so, and then again it would burst out, Naturally, the boys were big-eyed all the time with the sights that filled the landscape near and far. Wherever they looked they were astonished, and when in a march they came out on a crest that commanded a wide view, they could not help halting, to drink all its wonders in. 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